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Baron Repairs REPAIR # 1 - Bleed the front brake This repair involves working with brake fluid, which is very caustic, so it is recommended that you wear protective goggles and put a protective apron on the bike when attempting this repair. If you spill any of the brake fluid on the bike; wipe it up immediately! If you spill it on your skin get it off as soon as possible. If you get the brake fluid in your eyes, get yourself to a doctor immediately! Is there brake fluid (DOT 4) in the master cylinder? If so, and the brake is spongy, it is time to bleed the brake.
Here is the brake bleeding procedure along with pictures to help you identify the parts mentioned Here's how it is done: It is a two person job. Person one pumps the brake until the brake handle gives the greatest amount of resistance and HOLDS IT. With person number one still holding the brake handle in place, person number two opens the bleeder valve screw. Some air will come out, and then when fluid eventually starts to come out, person number two closes the bleeder valve screw. Now repeat the same operation over and over again until you no longer have to pump up the brake to get a decent amount of resistance out of it. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that while person number two has the bleeder valve open, that person number one does NOT let go of the brake handle UNTIL the bleeder valve is closed again. Letting go of the brake handle while the bleeder valve is open would actually suck air into the brake system which would mean you would have to bleed the brake forever to get all that air out. Finally - while you're doing this operation you will inevitably lose some fluid that comes out of the brake bleeder valve. This fluid will have to be replaced by topping up the master cylinder's brake fluid resovoir (located on the handle bar). *NOTE - do not let the master cylinder run out of brake fluid while you're bleeding the brake. If you do, you will be letting air get into the brake system which will mean you have to do even more bleeding. Still spongy and showing no improvement even after repeated bleeding (and you're sure there is fluid in the master cylinder)? You most likely have a bad master cylinder.
. REPAIR # 2 - DRIVE Belt Change Again, I have not performed this repair as of yet, but this is what I anticipate the repair will entail. If the (Baron) PM is like most automatic scooters, first you'll have to drain the gear oil, then remove the left hand side case allen screws, pull the case off, clean the gasket off of the inside of this cases face (be gentle!!! use gasket dissolver and a tooth brush...not a screw driver), then you'll see the variator. You probably have to remove the variator in order to get the belt off. The variator usually just looks like a pulley and has a bit bolt in the center of it. The trick is you usually have to put a tool on the variator (strap wrench or maybe you'll have to get a variator holder from a Honda scooter shop) to keep it from spinning while you loosen the big bolt in the center of it. The variator comes off, the shredded old belt bits come out, then you slide the new belt around the variator and the other pulley, bolt the variator back on (you'll probably have to ! use the variator holding tool again) being careful not to overtigthen just get it snug, then you put a new gasket (which you'll either make or get from Baron), put it on the inside of the case (make sure beforehand that you have all the gasket dissolver rinsed off well) which you'll tighten back on to the engine carefully, tightening each side a little at a time so as not to warp the new gasket, then you'll follow the gear oil change procedure on the website to put new gear oil in the bike and you're done. If you can get a Kevlar belt, it is recommended. They are not as smooth but last longer. REVISION - Lev (of Baron Motorcycles) writes: No need to drain oil on this one. Just undo the screws (phillips) around the shiny cover and pull the cover off. Most likely you won't damage the gasket and you'll be able to reuse it. The important part is when you take off the front pulley, make sure not to lose the weights in it. If you do, no big deal, you will have to put them in correctly. REVISION #2 - Lev (of Baron Motorcycles) writes: Here's the picture (see picture below) of the motor without belt cover with variator removed. Please note small marks on two gears. They need to be horizontal. Also please note manual starter return spring. It needs to be vertical and fits in a groove on the bottom of the engine case. The 3 shafts that are sticking out are: Shaft where the variator fits, shaft that holds intermediary gear from manual starter and the manual starter shaft. Manual starter shaft protrudes though the engine cover, the intermediary shaft fits in a "seat" in the engine cover, so when you put the cover back on, the trickiest part is to make sure that the intermediary shaft fits in its seat.
. REPAIR # 3 - Carburetor Adjustment 1. Open the seat. 2. Take out all the stuff underneath the seat. 3. Remove the two rear seat latch nuts (SEE PICTURE) 4. Remove the battery cover. 5. Take off the two battery terminal screws and remove the battery. 6. Remove the battery tray 7. Under the battery tray you will see two nuts, remove them. (SEE PICTURE) 8. Now the seat and the tray underneath it will pull up. Pull it up a little bit and move it just enough so you can see under it. In other words, move it as much as you can without pulling off the (3) vacuum lines that go from various parts of the engine up to the charcoal filter that is mounted on the seat tray. 9.
Try adjusting the idle screw (SEE PICTURE) first. Hold off on adjusting the mixture screw (This is not pictured...I could not get a good picture of it...sorry!) unless you absolutely have to. Here are the instructions as written by Lev (of Baron): There are two adjustments on the carburetor: mixture and idle. Mixture screw is on the side of the carb, idle is next to the throttle cable. Once the bike starts up (note: you already disconnected the battery to get the tray off, so to start the bike you're going to want to put the battery back into the tray, which is still sitting a little to the side so you can access the carburetor, and then start the bike up), adjust the idle screw so that it runs. After that, adjust the mixture screw to the best position. Usually you want to back it out to its highest rpm, then screw it in about 1/2 turn. Adjust the idle again to about 1500 rpm (in other words you want the idle screw set so that it the scooter will start easily enough and not stall when the engine is cold, but also you want the idle low enough so that when the engine is warm it isn't racing or trying to pull forward when you're stopped). If you see that the bike "lags" at acceleration, there is one more adjustment you can try. If you take the top plastic (or metal) cover off, you can remove the diaphragm along with the plunger and needle attached to it. You can take the needle out of the plunger and set the retaining clip one notch lower. This will keep the needle higher and provide more fuel for acceleration.
. REPAIR # 4 - Carburetor Removal and Replacement - This is somewhat difficult, so you might consider hiring a mechanic to do this for you. 1. Follow steps 1-8 found in Repair #5 2. Disconnect the a. throttle cable. b. fuel line c. the clamps (which hold the carb on). d. choke (SEE PICTURE...you might just be able to disconnect the wires to the choke) and E. Vacuum lines 3. Pull the carb off...if something I missed is holding it on, then disconnect it and then pull the carb off. 4. Put the new carb on, and reconnect all the stuff you disconnected to remove the old carb. 5. Follow the tuning instructions found in Repair #5, step 9. . More repairs will be posted soon We hope you find our content helpful and easy to follow. If you have any input regarding repairs or parts availability, please contact us so we may post your information and further help fellow Baron riders. This website is provided for informational purposes only. I do not warranty any of its content or recommend that you undertake any of the repairs featured here. Should you undertake any of the repairs, you do so at your own risk. I am not affiliated with Baron Motorcycles. . |
 Designed and maintained by Muse Inspired Design . | .All Repairs authored by Robert Brammer. |
